Rameshwaram - Tracing the footsteps of SriRama in pursuit of Sita

Kodanda Rama Temple

In tracing the footsteps of SriRama in pursuit of reclaiming his wife from Ravana, many a thought crosses my mind. In modern times, assisted with technology and google at your finger tips armed with a series of question to ponder I wonder: If Ravana had the technology to fly, why was not a sailing option available to Rama? It would have been easier to build ships than build bridges but maybe it was affordability! If all of this ordeal was to rescue Sita, why was there an agnipariksha? If Rama was eka Patnivrita, then why was Sita abandoned in the forest? Did SriRama find popularity in his times by being a man of his words? If so, why was he questioned on his personal choices and decisions. Why is there no mention of the Vansh of Rama? How did the lineage after Luv and Kush disappear into oblivion? Why does Ayodhya the place find more importance than the actual descendants? Why does Rama seek knowledge from Ravana at his death bed, could it be because Ravana was the father of Sita (according to some versions of Jain Ramayana)? Rama considers having killed Ravana as a Sin, if victory of Good over Evil is the binding force of civilization, then why would Ram consider it a Sin. Finding a suitable explaination, I see Rama as an ordinary human (discounting his Godly status from mythology) gives us more reasons to be forgiving and understanding. When grandeur of bygone times fades, Mythology is questioned with new vigor!

Pamban Bridge

SriRama, considered as Maryada Purushotam(meaning the best among the gentleMen) also has not been alien to criticisms today. SriRama in pursuit of Sita went through extreme hardship to  Srilanka the kingdom of the Asura King Ravana. Rama who was on exile during the time was forced to build an army fit to challenge the mighty Asura Ravana. In Kishkinda, located in Hampi-Karnataka, SriRama meets his paramabhakt Hanuman who is a general in the Monkey king Sugreeva’s army. By fighting Vali and helping Sugreeva, Rama attains a part of the required manpower. With the assistance of Hanuman, the location whereabouts of Sita are clear and the allied forces march ahead in that direction at Rameshwaram, Rama is confronted with the problem of crossing over the sea to reach Srilanka. Rama seeks the blessings of the all powerful Siva by making a lingam made of sand at Rameshwaram and meditates to arrive at the decision of building a Sethu (bridge). The monkey forces are keen and work relentlessly to create the Rama Sethu to cross over to Srilanka.

Lakshmana Theertham

The war that follows sees a lot of casualties and miracles, like the incident where the Sanjeevani Booti is brought from the Himalayas to help Lakshmana recover from fatal injuries during war. The war sees personalities like Kumbhakarna and Indrajit bite the dust. Finally Ravana too is killed, there is an interesting incident where Rama tells Lakshmana to go to Ravana, who is dying and get knowledge from his experiences. Lakshmana goes to Ravana and asks him to share his knowledge however Ravana refuses to do so. When Rama goes to him and asks him the same Ravana Tells him that Lakshmana had approached him at the side of his head, while Rama approached him at his feet like a Student and therefore he will tell him the lessons he learned. In some versions of Jain Ramayana, Sita was considered to be the daughter of Ravana and Mandodari and was  abandoned at birth because the stars predicted that she would bring doom to her father. After the war, when Sita returned along with Ram, in Rameshwaram there are a lot of Theerthas that Ram Took dips in to absolve him of the sins of killing Ravana a learned Scholar and a Brahmin.

Jata theertham

Once Rama , Sita and Lakshmana return with the Army to the Indian Shores, they involve in a series of Baths to absolve themselves of the Sin of killing Maharathas(bravemen). A series of theerthas exist in Rameshwaram that claim their existence to these acts of purification. Vilundi Theertham is a well where Rama Shot an arrow to the seashore and a well of sweet tasting water came for Sita to quench her thirst. Jata Theertham, where they washed their hair. Rama Theertham where Rama did puja to absolve him of the sin of killing Ravana. Lakshmana Theertham, where Lakshmana purified himself by dipping into the waters and praying to be absolved to sins. To conclude, As humans we should be responsible for our actions and decisions, each karma has positive or negative impact, which should be recognized and dealt with accordingly. The changes we make has implications that calls for action. The choices made can either elevate or destroy. Rama wanted to implement an ideal Rajya, where the king was seen as fair, just and approachable. In the bargain to satisfy the critics Rama was forced to make a decision to abandon his wife Sita. Time is testimony to all that happens, it elevated Rama’s status to God and gave him a mythological status. However it robbed him of his family and gave the world room for debate. There is no ideal status in the world. Today’s rights may not remain so tomorrow. Time erases all and begins new. The law of nature is to change and the nature of man is to question. As we learn more the flat world turns round and the galaxies elliptical. News replaces Myths. And life continues when time watches on.

The Aura within - “Jyothirlinga”

Shiva, Varaha & Hamsa

Having visited three of the twelve jyothirlingas I decided to write about the significance and the meaning of Jyothirlingas. Shiva worship dates back to prehistoric times. Jyothirlinga where Jyothi means radiance and Lingam means image of Shiva, thus a jyothirlinga means “The radiant sign of almighty Shiva”. In mythology, when Brahma and Vishnu had an argument on ‘Who is superior, the one who creates or the one who sustains’. What is the greater power creation or sustenance, to settle this dispute Shiva appears in the form of a Pillar of Light (Jyothirlinga) and tells them whoever finds the origin or the end of the pillar will be the winner. Vishnu takes the form of a Varaha, a wild boar, and goes below the earth to find the foot of the Pillar of light while Brahma takes the form of a Hamsa (Swan), and flies above to find the crown of the pillar. The search seems endless and therefore Vishnu is humbled and concedes defeat and bows to Shiva. Brahma, in the meantime finds a flower falling down - the Ketaki flower or the Thaymboo (screwpine flower) and asks the flower where was it falling from. The flower replies that it was falling from the Top or crown of the jyothirlinga. The flower is coaxed into giving false evidence by Brahma of having reached the crown and having brought back the flower as proof. Brahma and Ketaki flower are cursed by Shiva. Ketaki flower is not used for worship and Brahma temples and followers are limited in number.

Jyothirlinga are 12 in number spread across India, therefore if the jyothirlinga was one Pillar of light how do we have 12 spots across India with Jyothirlingas. In pursuit of the answers I came across several explanations. What appealed to me most was that originally the temples were build as “Energy Zones” their location was geographically and astronomically significant. These locations show the existence of energy zones, the ancient temples existed in such energy zones. A long time ago, people with a certain level of perception very carefully calibrated these spaces and fixed those points according to the celestial movement. These spaces are created in a certain way, not just using human capabilities, but the forces of nature. This is the science of using life energies to enhance human life in a phenomenal way. The Jyothirlinga temples are dedicated to Shiva. Shiva temples usually do not have any Idol in human form they have and ellipsoid which is the linga. The jyothirlingas are essentially our connection points to the celestial powers of the universe. The location of these temples are also specific to terrain- two on the seashore, three on riverbanks, four on heights of mountains and three in villages located in the meadows.

Ramanathaswamy Temple

Being an Arian a visit to the Ramanathaswamy temple was interesting when I found out that Aries stands for sites of warfare used for prayer and worship before going to war, worship of the aspects of a God as a protector during warfare, giver of strength, motivation, decidedness, clear attitudes and victory. Aries stand for the gathering place of armies or warriors before the start of a war and important the sites of important oracles that were consulted before beginning a war. Interesting enough the legend of the only Jyotirlinga in Aries is the Ramanathaswamy shrine in Rameshwaram, in fact this site is directly related to a war. During the war of Rama the seventh incarnation of God Vishnu against the Asura King Ravana;  Rama`s army built a bridge from Rameshwaram to the island of Sri Lanka to prepare the attack. Rameshwaram thus represented the site of the gathering of Rama`s armies and the starting point of the attack on Sri Lanka. It is believed that Lord Rama made a linga of sand and whorshipped it and asked to be blessed so he could vanquish the Asura King Ravana. Lord Shiva blessed him accordingly. Lord Rama also requested Lord Shiva to reside eternally here for the benefit of mankind. Siva then manifested himself into a Jyothirlinga that radiates energy for eternity.

The shrine of the Grishneshwar Jyiotirlinga located near the famous Ellora cave temples has both astro-geographical coordinates in earth sign Capricorn.  And this is why the legend about how and why the Grishneshwar Jyiotirlinga was installed in the place that can serve as characteristic of that sign. It is a story about complete trust in the laws of the eternal manifestations of god and surrendering one`s own personal views, fears and limitations to the plane of divine knowledge and the service to god, one´s duties, obligations and the laws of fate, dharma, physics and higher knowledge. According to a legend, In the Devagiri mountain, there lived a Brahmin couple named Brahmavetta Sudharm and Sudeha, they had no children and complying to the wife’s wishes Brahmavetta married the sister of his wife, Ghushma. Gushma was a devout lady and prayed everyday to Lord Shiva making 101 lingas and immerse it into the nearby lake. In time Gushma gave birth to a Son, however her sister grew jealous of her and killed the baby and threw it in the same lake. Mourning painfully Gushma continued to worship the Shivalingas, and when she immersed them in the lake, Lord Shiva appeared before her and gave life to her son. Another Legend of this place is that once Parvati was about to fill her hair parting with vermillion and Saffron, in kamyavana. She kept it in her left palm and mixed water from the lake and with her right thumb she started to mix them, a miracle occurred and the mixture turned into a jyothirlinga. Lord Shiva explained that this Linga was hidden in Patala and he had removed it with his Trident. Parvati kept the linga of light into the stone linga, the completion of the linga complete this Jyothirlinga is also referred to as Kunkumeshwar, but since Dakshayani(Parvati) created a linga with friction (Grishma)of her thumb it was called Grishneshwara.

Trimbakeshwar town is an ancient Hindu Pilgrim centre located at the source of the Godavari River, the longest river in peninsular India. Trimbakeshwar is abode of one of the twelve Jyotirlingas. The extraordinary feature of the Jyotirlinga located here is the Linga in the temple is in the form of a three faced embodying Tridev- Lord Brahma, Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva. It is the only Jyotirlinga where all the three Supreme gods dwell in the main sanctum. All three resides in a hollow space within the Shiva lingam.  The Shivalinga is said to be emerged naturally. the place is also known for its Simhastha Kumbha Mela, which comes every 12 years. This is associated with story of the churning of Ocean, Gods occupied immortal nectar from Asuras by fooling them. When the Asuras came to know of this, they fought with Gods for ‘Amritakumbha’(the pot bearing the amrut). In process drops of Amrit fell at four places – Haridwar, Prayag, Ujjain and Trimbakeshwar. This is also the birth place or origin of river Godawari. People worship Godavari as Ganga. Godavari river is also referred to as Dakshin Ganga. Lord Shiva resides here in the form of Trimbakeshwar Jyotirlinga.

Dhanushkodi – The whisper in the Sound of Silence

Pamban Rail Bridge

Dhanushkodi – is where Legends, faith, awe, history, tragedy, fear, beauty, tranquility, peace.. all mix to form graphic emotions that leaves you speechless. A part of the Lyrics of a popular song “The sound of silence” plays on my mind “People talking without speaking, People hearing without listening, People writing songs that voices never shared, No one dared, Disturb the sound of silence”.  Dhanushkodi means the end of the Bow, this is another place of mythological importance as here’s where Lord Ram build the Ram Sethu to cross over to Ravan’s Lanka and reclaim his beautiful wife Sita. The Bridge build with Floating rocks (in Display at the Panchamukhi hanuman temple in Rameswaram), was believed to have been destroyed by the tip of Lord Ram’s arrow as per the wishes of the new King of Lanka ‘Vibhishana’. 

Double leaf bascule bridge

Pamban Bridge

The British centuries later did a smaller modern version of a similar bridge connecting the Rameshwaram Island to mainland India by rail “The Pamban Bridge”. So here’s the story of the Bridge built by the British. The Pamban bridge was India’s first sea Bridge and was opened on 24^th Feb 1914.  This rail bridge like any other conventional bridge rests on concrete piers what is unique is that it has a double-leaf-bascule bridge. The middle section raised up to let the Ships and barges pass through. The Pamban bridge was the only surface transport that connected the Island Rameshwaram to the mainland.

Rail bridge

Dhanushkodi Railway station 

More than half a century ago a depression in the Andaman Sea intensified into a Cyclonic storm, the landfall on the 22^nd of December 1964 caused immense destruction. High tidal waves swept away almost all of Dhanuskodi. On the fateful night, the Pamban-Dhanushkodi Passenger train which was a regular service and was on its usual route when it was washed away by huge tidal waves, all the 115 passengers on the train were washed away, never to surface again. The landfall in its wake had washed away most of Dhanuskodi.

The Massive destruction it caused left about 2000 people dead and many missing.

Church

Ruins

Dhanushkodi was eaten up by the sea and the massive destruction left the town uninhabited,It was declared as a Ghost town, with people left behind having abandoned their houses having witnessed the fury of nature. Fear is a long lasting emotion, as a reminder came the Tsunami in December 2004, when the sea receded to reveal the ruins swallowed by it only to re- emerge in a graphic replay with no warning signs unlike before.

Lands end

A little over 50 years have passed and now, We are connected by road to Rameshwaram, and in Dhanushkodi,  the roofless buildings have held up to the sun, attracting tourists. Now this place has a newly built road to “Lands End” Dhanushkodi, build in 2017 as a part of the memorial build for our Late President Abdul Kalam. Peace tranquility and beauty folds all into one at Dhanuskodi, the wind blowing softly at your hair, the waves lapping at your feet, give little but no indication of the bustling village it swallowed in its fury or any indication of an anxious Prince undertaking an impossible task of building a floating bridge to reclaim his kidnapped wife.

Abdul Kalam Memorial

Like it is said “Life goes on” Dhanushkodi too is slowly found its feet, loosing its fears and embracing the new found identity status of being the Late President’s home town in addition to the historical significance, mythological importance and the all existent remainders of tragedy.  Time heals all. Nothing lasts for ever; in current times not even Diamonds. History is, when people become numbers and Governments become dates.

Pamban Road Bridge

Dhanushkodi beach

Times change and life goes on. You cannot change what has happened and you cannot predict what will happen. All you have is NOW! Lets live it! Tomorrow…if tomorrow comes is another day.

The Legends of Thiru Uttaraikosamangai

Ramanad also known as Ramanathapuram in Tamilnadu houses one of the most elegant ancient temple called the “Uttaraikosamangai Temple” The temple is built in Dravidian style architecture. This is believed to be a 3000 year old temple of Mangalanathar and Mangaleswari and a Nataraja made of Emerald are the main deities of this temple. The Temple is considered as the first shiva temple of the world. The temple named Uttirakosamangai – where Uttiram means preaching, Kosam means Secret Mangai means Woman, here it denotes Goddess Parvathi, as the name suggests here is the place where Shiva tells the Secret of the universe to Goddess Parvathi. The temple also has two separate enterances one for Lord Shiva “Mangalanathar” and one for Goddess Shakti “Mangaleswari” which is unique, As all temples usually have one main entrance and inside it may house Gods under different Vimanas(towers).

Gopuram for Mangalanathar

Gopuam for Mangaleshwari

The interesting and unique aspects of this temple are that it houses a monolithic emerald statue of Nataraja, “Maragatha Natarajan” which is one of its kind as is perhaps the only statue known to be made of emerald, it is believed that emerald is a sensitive soft stone and it cannot withstand the vibrations and sounds made by musical instruments such as Madhalam and others, it could break with loud vibratons. Therefore, this emerald Nataraja statue is covered with the sandal powder all over the year. The Nataraja idol is covered in Sandal Paste and abishekam is performed to the God only once in an year during Thiruvathira Nakshatram of Marghazhi maasam that occurs in Dec-Jan and is the birth star of the Lord. After Abhishekam the idol is kept covered in Sandal Paste for the rest of the year to maintain the delicate idol in cool conditions throughout the year. One can wonder how a statue that cannot withstand the sound can be chisel carved, It is believed that the sculptor of this statue sculpt this Natarajar statue by the Mind sculpting method, even without touching it.

Dikapalakas

 The wonders of Shilpa Shastra can be explored in the beautiful sculptures found here, the pillars have beautiful lions carved out of stone, some of the carved lions have a round stone in its mouth that moves. This is the only temple where Thayamboo (Screwpine flower) that is banned in all Siva temples is allowed here, as this is the place where Brahma and the Flower Thayamboo that gave false evidence in favour of Brahma were absolved of their curse.

Mandapam at the temple

Every ancient temple has stories of its origin and association with mythology. This temple is believed to house the Kula Devata of Ravana and Mandodari. It is a well known fact that Ravana was a staunch Devotee of Shiva. Ravana and Mandodari’s wedding is supposed to have taken place here. It is one of the rare shiva temples that possess the three forms of worshiping Lord Shiva that is in a Moorthi (Idol) form, As swaymbo Lingam and as Agnee Theertham. So here goes the story Long ago King Ravana visited Mayasura (The King of the Asuras) and there he met a beautiful maiden “Mandodari”  who was the daughter of Mayasura. Ravana was instantly in love with her and asked for her hand in marriage. Mandodari was a Siva Bhakta and wanted to marry a man who was a great Shiva devotee. Ravana was a Shiva Bhakt and she therefore married Ravana. As time passed and she did not bear a child, she decided to do a severe penance  of Lord Shiva. Shiva was pleased with Mandodari’s penance and decides to appear before her and he tells 1000 rishis doing penance to keep the Vedas safe.

Illandimaram

Shiva appears to Mandodari in the form of a small child and Ravana Catches hold of the Child hurting it. Shiva then takes the form of Agnee and 999 Rishis burn in the fire to attain moksha, while one remains to take care of the Vedas. Siva Appears in the form of a Sahasra Lingam (1000 lingams merged into one) The one Rishi who remains to take care of the Vedas is the poet saint Manicka Vedavyasar in a later birth. The Mediyadi(footwear) of the saint exists under the a 3000 year old tree (Illandi maram) to this day and the place where Siva Appears in Agnee form is the Agnee Theertham at Utirakosammangai.

Peralassery & Makreri - A tale of Sri Rama and Hanuman

Most ancient temples find a connection to mythology, the Ramayana, Mahabharata or to one of the Gods. Here is another one such connection to the epic.

Once upon a yugantara , Subramanya asked Brahma  the meaning of 'Om'.The meaning and its  explanation given by Brahma was not found satisfactory by Subramanya, in anger he captured Bhramha and put him in a cell. When Siva the father of Subramanya came to know of this horrible sin committed by his son he released Brahma Deva and explained to Subramanya that his deed was a great sin. For that sin Subramanya had to take the form of a serpent and had to live in an isolated well.  Every negative Karma has a direct punishment even if it is committed by the Gods and Subramanya would have to live in that isolated well and reflect upon his deeds and improve as a God. He would be liberated from the curse by Sri Rama in Threta Yuga. To protect him from Sun and rain other serpents stood over the well with raised hoods. The place where the serpents protected Subramanya is Peralassery according to the legends. The Snakes are considered Adishesha, earth is harmed by digging for whatever cause, it hurts Adisesha who is bearing the earth all the time. The Protectors of the Earth the Snakes are honoured at Peralassery along with Subramanya and Ayyappa.

In Threta yuga when Rama, Lakshmana and Hanuman arrived at this place during their exile, There was an Ayyappa Kaavu, Rama recognised the presence of Subramanya and absolved him of his sin. Thereafter he decided to install a Vigraham (idol) of Subramanya, for the Prathishta Hanuman through his Divya Sristi found an idol of Valli Parinaya Subramanyan Which was near the Sarayu river near the northern part of Bharatha. Hanuman was given the muhurtham (Auspicious Time) to install the idol and set journey to bring the idol from north India. As the Muhurtham neared and Hanuman could not make it back in time, Rama decided to do the Prathishta with his Peruvala (big bangle) This is how this Kshetram came to be known as Peruvalasherry and later was shortened to Peralassery. The Subrahmaniya Prathishta is believed to have been done by Sree Rama himself.

The Story of the Temple of Peralasherry does not end here as the story of Makreri begins here.

Soon Hanuman Returns from Sarayu Theeram with the Idol of Valli Parinaya Subramanyan and is extremely saddened by the fact that the Muhurtham is over, on seeing his Parama Bhakta Hanuman’s distress Rama Finds a Spot  to have the Idol installed west of Peruvalasherry. Hanuman is Blessed with Eternal life and is considered Chiranjeevi, the Idol or Subramanya was installed by Hanuman, a supreme among the Markkadas (Monkeys) and hence the Place of the Kshetram was called Markadaserri and later shortened to Makreri. It is Believed that Hanuman does the Poojas at this temple and there is an idol of Hanuman with the Prathista of Valli Parinaya Subramanya at the Tantri Sthanam (the place of the Chief Priest ). Since the main Thantri is Hanuman himself, who is a Punya Athma, the prathishta got uncontrollable power. In order to Conrol this power as well as to give daily darshan to his parama Bhakta Hanuman, Sri Rama took his original form of Maha Vishnu and installed himself on the three sides of the temple.

The Makreri temple also has a collection of awards won by the Famous Music Director Sri Dakshinamurthy. Sri Dakshinamurthy had announced his decision to relinquish the awards before the presiding deity of the temple. The expense for constructing a Saraswathi Mandapam at the temple was borne by him. The Mandapam is used for staging performances by newly initiated Children. 

Uttarayana - Makara Sankranthi

The Sun’s transit into Capricorn (Makara) constellation that usually occurs on 14/15 January every year and is a very important Hindu festival celebrated all over India in various forms. Uttarāyaṇa, the six-month period when the sun travels towards the north on the celestial sphere starts on Makara Sankranti and ends on Karka Sankranti (around July 14).

This is the Time of Makara Jyothi  in Shabarimala - this time when I was asked why are women between 10-50yrs not allowed to visit the Sannidhanam, I decided to find out and read several articles. Most explanations were negative in nature, I read on and finally found something which was more positive in nature and did not represent religion bias on gender.

Hindu Goddesses are representative of power, Kali, Mohini etc have got the Gods out of trouble with the asuras many a times. So why is that even in temples of these Goddesses Menstruating women are not allowed. I came across an interesting read - It says the Menstrual cycles are associated with the moon (28 days) women’s cycles were influenced by natural moonlight. The principle is guided by the theory that moonlight provided an important synchronizing signal (scientists call these “zeitgebers”) for menstrual cycles that is now lost in our modern environment. The same practices of seclusion during menstruation, similar taboos related to touching food, not entering religious place, etc have been documented world over, however it is only existing and practiced still in India. Menstruating women were considered to be having special powers during menstruation, which if not used properly could cause harm to others. In Hindu Culture Red is an important part of rituals, 'Kumkum' is used in all ceremonies, this color depicts power. Red in color used in ceremonies is apparently indicative of the ancient ritual of using blood.It is believed that during menstruation, women are constantly dissipating energy from their bodies. Most religious chants are meant to balance out the energies in our body. However, this would interfere with the natural losing of energy that must happen in menstruating women to prevent excessive energy build-up. Hence, menstruating women are told to keep away during such occasions, so that their natural processes are not tampered with. Menstruating women become open to receiving and absorbing energy during this time. This means, they can easily absorb other’s energies, including negative energies. Hence, they are asked to stay away from crowds and gatherings. The 40day fasting period includes a cycle period for a woman and hence the abstinence.